Just a Problem to Be Solved
Angers, Loire Valley, 22 and 23 September 2026
My way into the Loire started with a very stressful train ride. I was meant to get off at Saint-Pierre-des-Corps, the station just outside Tours where everyone changes for the Loire, but between the language barrier and a silly mistake on my part I didn't get off, and the next thing I knew I was heading to Strasbourg, right over on the other side of France. Two of the train guards helped me sort it out and I got a direct train from Strasbourg straight to Angers, another four hours, but I had to buy a whole new ticket for another 120 euros, so it was an expensive mistake. Everyone I've told has said it's easily done. It wasn't a problem, just a problem to be solved.
I do think it's a life lesson though, in how not to panic and just sort it, and in how you react to it. Mikey and I chatted about it afterwards and he said I'm just catching up on the travel I didn't do when I was young. I said he's just catching up on looking after the boys, the cat and the dog.
I got into Angers at about 9.40pm. The town was busy with young ones out partying and there was nothing open for dinner, which didn't matter because I wasn't really that hungry anyway. I walked around for a bit and then went to bed, pretty exhausted but happy I was there and happy I was safe.
The next day I needed to relax and enjoy Angers, so that's exactly what I did. It took a bit of getting used to as a city rather than a little village like Rilly-la-Montagne. It's quite big, with all your commercial shops around, which wasn't that appealing to me. I went down to the tourism office, found out what I could do and made plans to catch the train out to Savennières the next day.
When I travel I hate going to the big restaurants in the middle of the squares, sitting out on plastic chairs where everybody can see you, or places that are just a commercial operation, so I always hunt out the smaller side restaurants. And that's how I found Les Joues Rouges, which means red cheeks. I stumbled across it walking around in the morning and it was closed, but when I came back past it was open. It's a set menu for lunch and the carrot was phenomenal, the fresh bread was phenomenal and there were great natural wines. Lunch was turkey with creamy pasta but I swapped it out for lentils and eggs, which was exciting. Even the plates and cutlery were great. It's very out of the way and had only been open a week, and the owner Delphine was just so lovely. It had such a warm, loving atmosphere, the complete opposite of a commercial square full of chairs, and she even invited me to come back to the restaurant the next night with her. I didn't make it back this time, but a big shout out to Delphine. If you're ever in Angers, go and find her, it's an absolute must.
Les Joues Rouges, Angers
Instagram @les_joues_rouges_angers · Book a table · 09 80 37 16 88 · lesjouesrouges.angers@gmail.com
Even in a city the size of Angers they close their doors at lunchtime. Everyone just goes home or wherever they like and everything goes calm.
Being in the valley amongst the vines, the buildings and the castles, I'm learning about Loire Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc and a little bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. Everyone keeps on saying "of course" it's Chenin or Cabernet Franc, and you start to understand why. Around Angers and Anjou, Chenin Blanc is the white grape that does everything, from bone dry to sweet to sparkling, and Savennières, where I'm heading next, is famous for its dry Chenin. Head further up the river to Saumur and Chinon and Cabernet Franc takes over as the red. To the locals it's not even a question, it's just what grows here.