Reims
Reims and Its Beauty and History
It's exactly two weeks since I landed in Champagne, and it's been an absolute whirlwind, hard work and fun in equal measure. I've had two days now to properly explore Reims and I still feel like I've barely scratched the surface, though I get to come back before I leave so there's more time to get to know it properly.
Over the last few days I went back out to the winery. Philippe, from Champagne Brugnon in Rilly, is part of a proper sabrage brotherhood and he walked me through the induction ceremony (see my last post for the full ceremony). The bottle was Champagne Brugnon Brut Premier Cru, Cuvée Élégance, his own house's wine. Philippe's winery is just round the corner from Marc Chauvet, and that's the other lovely bit, the connection. We pressed his juice together so I got to know him quite well, then he took me through the correct sabrage technique. I am now part of the brotherhood of sabrage. He also holds a dinner I'd like to attend one year, so I need to remember to email him for the details as soon as I'm back in NZ.
Day fourteen I spent exploring Reims properly. Got dropped at a wine retailer that stopped me in my tracks, I think it had every Champagne and Burgundy there was, ridiculous, but also very fun to be in such a cool place.
Papavero, a big bottle shop, boozie in the best way, bought some wine here for Jules as a thank you.
Caves du Forum, an underground one, where Blair from Felton Road is doing a dinner and wine workshop in November. I have to tell the truth here, the Jura red I bought was terrible, no structure, like it was trying to be an orange wine and not quite managing it. A bit disappointing given the price, 72 euro a bottle. It was the Arbois Pupillin Ploussard “Côte de Feule” 2023, from Cellier Saint Benoît (Benjamin Benoît), Arbois-Pupillin AOC, Jura, a cuvée of just 3,534 bottles. I also picked up their Arbois Pupillin Savagnin naturé “Les Plantées” 2023, same producer and region, also 72 euro, a cuvée of 721 bottles, and that one was much better, properly drinkable.
La Pressoir, a wine bar with the glass pours changing every week, impressive barrel display. Had a great few glasses here then moved on.
La Clos, a big casual pub, walked through a courtyard to get to it. Had a beer, my palate was exhausted by that point, then a wine.
Round the corner to Aroma for dinner. Worried the meal was going to be too big, but it came out perfect, a wee bit of steak and salad, exactly what was needed.
Drinking a lot of champagne at the moment, but when in Champagne, drink Champagne.
On my way back I need to explore the surrounding villages and Épernay, but first a visit to Beaune. Beaune is going to be my next entry.
Things to remember, regions in Champagne
Vallée de la Marne, this is where the other Marc Chauvet vines are. There are seven owners with 42 hectares that they own together.
Montagne de Reims
Côte des Blancs
Côte des Bar