Riddling down in the cave is slow, meditative work, three-quarter turns every day for three weeks. Then a proper sabrage induction with Philippe, ceremonial French delivered with total sincerity in the middle of the cellar.

The last day of picking at Marc Chauvet, one of the best seasons on record, small berries in great condition, a final press load charged alongside Jules, and a harvest party where a daft drinking game became the whole team's phrase for the night.