The last day of picking at Marc Chauvet, one of the best seasons on record, small berries in great condition, a final press load charged alongside Jules, and a harvest party where a daft drinking game became the whole team's phrase for the night.

Inside the winery now, moving off the vines and onto the cellar team. Water instead of detergent, the logic behind discarding the first press and anything left overnight, a sabrage knock back from Philippe for being too grubby, and a food fight looming in three days.

Ten minutes from Reims by train, a Premier Cru village most visitors only pass through on the champagne trail. This is the same village from the inside the chai.