The best day of the trip, a scuba dive with Deep Blue turning up clownfish, eels and barracuda despite a few nerves going in, followed by a waterfront pub crawl from some genuinely awful Australian bubbles at Sunny View to good food and gins at Stone Grill.

An early swim along the reef turns up blue starfish and darting little fish, though the swell has us a bit on edge, then an afternoon beach bar mission that turns into pouring rain and freezing cold rather than the relaxed wine list browse we had planned.