Inside the winery now, moving off the vines and onto the cellar team. Water instead of detergent, the logic behind discarding the first press and anything left overnight, a sabrage knock back from Philippe for being too grubby, and a food fight looming in three days.

Ten minutes from Reims by train, a Premier Cru village most visitors only pass through on the champagne trail. This is the same village from the inside the chai.